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Pablo Rebollo barely managed to stand out in Marbella's gastronomic scene during his time as head chef of a frustrated hotel project in the old quarter of the town. In this new stage, now at the helm of his own restaurant, he is, without a doubt, one of the most promising chefs on the Costa del Sol. With a traditional cuisine from his homeland, Castilla-León, but where technique and creativity keep a perfect balance, he manages to update and one of the most forceful and sober cuisines of Spanish gastronomy. In the three menus that can be tasted at Candeal of 6, 11 or 13 courses, nothing is what it seems, quite the opposite. It is precisely in this contrast that Pablo is a talented cook, and the word 'guisar' (stew or braise) is not unfamiliar to him, as this is above all a cuisine of substance. Perhaps many young people who come out of schools and define themselves as chefs should learn a lot from the cuisine of this young man from Valladolid who lives in Marbella and the importance that lies behind each of the ingredients that make up the dishes.
Candeal, the name of the establishment which takes its name precisely from a type of white bread with a dense texture and long shelf life, originally from Castilla-León - although it later went beyond that territorial scope to Andalucía, where it is known as 'telera' in Cordoba and 'bollo' in Seville -, is one of those restaurants that should not be overlooked given its culinary offer, service and ambience. Rebollo has it clear from the start that the product is what matters most, as well as its subsequent execution so that each flavour is present without masking the others in each dish.
Address: Plaza Blas Infante 1. Marbella
Telephone: 608 888 006.
Closed: Sundays and Mondays.
Prices: Menestra: 25€. Merluza y almendra: 32€. Paletilla lechal: 42€
Valuation: Kitchen: 7.5; dining room: 7; Wine list: 6; Rating: 7.5 / 10
Proof of this is the winter stew where each ingredient stands out on its own or the machorra lamb chop, perhaps the only establishment where you can find it on the Costa del Sol. It is a gourmet delicacy to take to the palate. The meat comes from a two year old ewe that has never lambed and therefore has not produced milk, but given its fat cover it is ideal for cooking. Pablo Rebollo's cuisine may seem simple at first glance, but each of his creations is a true culinary treatise on updating and highlighting unique flavours.
Menestra de invierno (winter stew)
A stew that, despite being labelled 'winter', can be enjoyed until the end of May, as most of the ingredients are available in the market. Pablo presents it on a soft and ethereal juice and cooked to perfection.
Galete de atún (tuna fillet)
The mellowness and texture of the tuna and the perfect braising of the radicchio make this dish one of the most appetising on the menu. The mild marinade is the link and the balance between the two opposing flavours.
Potatoes a la importancia (potato stew)
Such a Castilian stew is a must on the Candeal menu. It is deconstruction and construction, with daring ingredients, in this potato stew which has a sumptuous gelatinous touch.
Oveja Machorra (Machorra lamb)
The essence of this preparation lies precisely in the flavour and delicacy of the meat of the machorra lamb, one of the most tender meats we can find. A surprise in the mouth in every sense of the word.
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