Contracata in Marbella: Bringing back tradition

Godoy is one of the most experienced waiters and sommeliers currently working in the province. He has many years of experience in establishments such as La Taberna del Alabardero, various restaurants in London and for the last few years he has been the owner and manager of Contracata in the two locations that this restaurant has had.

By the way, its first location in front of Parque Alameda in Calle Carlos Mackintosh had little or nothing, except for the diversity of special wines that could be consumed there, to do with the current Contracata, just as the cuisine of a year ago has almost nothing to do with the current one. Today, Contracata has once again surpassed itself and its goal is to recover Taberna 2.0 or, in other words, the taberna of the 21st century. To this end, the first thing Godoy has done is to bring back to the menu those iconic dishes from his first establishment, such as tuna in manteca colorá, zoque malagueño or tarantelo a la plancha.

But as Godoy himself says: "A meal without wine is a breakfast", here the special wines are still the forte of this house and the excuse for which a good part of its clientele come here. A pairing of dishes with these oenological diversities that are kept here are a real pleasure on most occasions. Around 60 different wines are available by the glass, something quite unusual in gastrobars and in many other places.

Another of the most striking aspects is where some of the dishes are served, although in a contemporary bar focused on wines, this should not surprise us at all. I am referring to those traditional dishes that Contracata serves on the staves of barrels that once held wine.

Focusing on the menu, the first thing you notice is the return of those dishes that have accompanied Godoy since the beginning: contrabravas, ensaladilla rusa, chicken croquettes... a simple menu where the flavours and textures remind us of traditional cuisine reconditioned to the most modern tastes, forgetting in part those oriental touches that appeared in the previous menu. And to round off the experience, there are days when Godoy himself sits at the piano.

The scallop is very finely cut and the maceration beforehand is very well balanced, resulting in a very fine and elegant mouthfeel. The touch of wakame adds depth and fullness to this dish while refreshing in the mouth.

Being where we are, in a 21st century taberna, and where wine is the main focus of most of the dishes, this tuna montadito in manteca colorá, quite juicy in the mouth, is served on a barrel stave.

The Malaga zoque is back with a vengeance in this house. This cold cream, very similar to gazpacho, has no cucumber or onion but it does have a slice of cured cheese. The sweet pepper and carrot make it very digestive.

In Godoy's revival of traditional dishes, a classic Malaga mollete could not be missing, in this case with stewed and boned oxtail, accompanied by a light sauce based on Pedro Ximénez wine.